
| Author | Comment | ||
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Jshwaa |
Just ask Jshwaa. |
Lead | |
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I've tried this before I was a mod and it was favored by some and damned by others. Now that I'm a mod, I'm going to give it another stab. If you got questions, leave them here. If you think this is a waste of a sticky, then feel free to let me know here. I'm just trying to clean up the thread a little and offer a spot for Q's, instead of having many different topics with one single question. I will try my best to get to the bottom of any electronic based xmod question you may have, or at least point you in the direction of finding the answer yourselves. Thanks, and have fun.
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red97supra |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Why won't anything over 10k Ohm work for the steering resistor mod?
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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That is a good question. The answer lies underneath the black dot of epoxy(IC1) on the xmod circuit board. All I can say is that >10k will cause the feedback signal, sent from the potentiometer inside the steering servo, to be so far out of wack that it can't compensate and make the proper the adjustment as to how far you're commanding it to turn. My guess is that the steering shoots over to the left or right with no increment in between, with greater than 10k. I could be wrong though.
Anyone try this? What's the adverse effect? Steering not work at all? Steering non-proportional(shoots full left or full right)? |
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Rugburn on face |
Arching | ||
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Is there an electronic way to prevent or reduce arching. Is there some sort of electronice componet that could help this problem.
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Jshwaa |
Re: Arching | ||
Quote: The best way to get rid of arcing is to go to a brushless system. I'm not sure that there is a component that is going to prevent arcing. I've been told that some arcing is OK. It depends on the color of the arc, whether or not it is damaging or not. I think that blue arcing is the ideal color, while orange is bad. One way of reducing arcs is to wear in your brushes and commutator by running them at a low voltage in water. Rob had a tutorial on water-breaking in your motor. If it's still on his website, check it out. |
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Rugburn on face |
what | ||
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What are , if you know any, some good ways to get rid of the heat that builds up from arcing?
1. Moded So3 motor
2. Directed hood and roof scoop 3.Foam tires 4.fet relocation 5.li-ion bats |
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: what | ||
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hey josh, how do you build a 5V regulator?
----------------------------------------------------------------- Nissan 350Z Stage 2 Red Motor With 100 uf Capaciter, 3.0 Degree Toe In Tie Rod, Metal Bearings, Hard Spring In Back, Soft In Front. Black Honda Civic: Dead...*tear*... will be fixed soon. |
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Jshwaa |
Re: what | ||
Quote: That's a good question. I've heard all kinds of ideas, ranging from air venting to water pumping. The light-weight approach is to just scoop air into your body and make a vent in the back so you have a constant flow of air taking heat away. |
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the holy bull |
gulp, there went my pride | ||
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I know Josh and I have had our problems in the past but I have an elctronics question for ya. I have never had much use for working on things you need a magnafying glass to see (insert small penis joke here) so when it comes to these matters I have no Idea. I put a pair of lithiums on my Mr02 and an X-speed motor I was running the car around my living roon floor when I lost all throttle response. I inspected the car and turned the power switch off, the motor started spinning at full throttle I turn the switch back on the motor stops and I regain servo control. I tore the car apart and inspected the board and saw nothing wrong with the fets (no blister) put it back together and tried it again, same problem. MOtor spun for about 3 seconds and stopped (with the power switch off) and poof smoke from under the PCB. I took it apart again and there was the blister on the forward FET. What other than the FET did I fry?
In India they worship me.
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Jshwaa |
Re: gulp, there went my pride | ||
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You possibly fried both FET's and/or their respective driver transistors. More specifically.....
Contrary to popular belief, there's no one FET for forward and no one for reverse. I understand that since there's 2 directions(forward and reverse), it must be intuitive to think that there is an FET designated for each direction. Actually both FET's are used in either direction. Each of those FET IC's(integrated circuit) has 2 FET's inside of it....an N channel FET and a P channel FET. All together you have 4 FET's. These are configured in an H-bridge circuit like you see in aftermarket versions like Rob's V1 board. When you go forward, the N-channel of one turns on, and so does the P-channel of the other. In reverse, they switch. So both FET's are actually being used in either direction. That being said, I'd put money on it that you fried not only the FET that blistered up, but the OTHER one as well. The damage took place, probably at the exact moment you noticed the erratic behavior. What caused it could be a number of reasons(heat, short, too much current, etc.) Now, as far as any OTHER part being damaged, without being able to test it I couldn't tell you. Replacing the FET's and seeing if it works would be a clear indicator, but could also blow the NEW FET's if you're not careful when applying power, because if the driver transistors fried in one state(on/off) you could just be putting the new FET's in the same situation that fried your old ones. Whether your xmod/mini-z's power switch is on or off, the FET's are connected to the cells, so turning it off would not save an FET from frying if something had gone wrong. What I'm guessing you experienced was too much current draw from a semi-stalled hot motor and the FET's just couldn't transfer the current from the li-ions. Sounds like you need either a stack, a V1, or one of my FET boards. All things set aside, bull, I'd be happy to walk you through fixing it and getting it running again. |
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the holy bull |
Re: gulp, there went my pride | ||
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I dont have hands steady enough to handle soldering things that small, I'll send the little buggar to you to take a look at if you can find the time, while your at it how about a 2x2 stack. Id like to keep it as stock looking as possible which rules out a supplimental board. Let me know man.
Bull In India they worship me.
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ChickeN |
Just ask Jshwaa | ||
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do you need an h bridhe to control the motor with a 5v regulator?
[_White RWD Twinturbo Supra_] |
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supersupra100 |
Your turbo charger doesn't Work!!!! | ||
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I just got xmodspeed's s-tune package that i ordered 3 months ago!!! And then i hook up the tight turns and that works fine. Then I hook up the hot wires and that is good to. Then comes the nitro charger. That piece of crap didn't do anything it said it did. I turned on my car and it was going fine for about 10 secs and then it just died. The car started going real slow and then stopped. Please help me jshwaa. Thanks.
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa | ||
Quote: No, your xmod already has an H-bridge inside of it. Look at the FET's and H-BRIDGE's section. The 'external' h-bridge is what you're referring to, and all that does is allow for a way more current to your motor. You only need the regulator if you're going to exceed 8.4V. You can build a killer motor to run on 8.4V, and use the h-bridge to drive more current to your hot motor. You'll need neo-dymium magnets to maintain torque, but you can take the turns down quite considereably if you have a nice h-bridge. The net result is more power to the ground and more speed. So think of the regulator as higher voltage potential, and the h-bridge as higher current potential. |
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ChickeN |
thanks | ||
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kool. i got a little confused.thanks
[_White RWD Twinturbo Supra_] |
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Unregistered(d) |
just ask jshwaa | ||
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heres my question i am thinkin about putting 4 li-ions in my xmod with a v1 board, and would that fry my motor, it has neodymium mags,ball-bearing case, carbon brushes, 37t armature, motor wire upgrade
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Jshwaa |
Re: just ask jshwaa | ||
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It shouldn't fry the motor. Just be sure to check up on the motor's heat once every so many laps around the track. I had bad luck with motors that DIDN'T have carbon brushes though. The silver brushes will just shrivle up and curl back, disconnecting themselves from the commutator. What you described, however, sounds like it was made to withstand a little more power.
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Unregistered(d) |
just ask jshwaa | ||
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yep i currently tring to build the most insane drag car i can.
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: just ask jshwaa | ||
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Hi jshwaa, big fan by the way
. All of my xmods problems are electronic ones, I guess for my poor background in electronics but here it goes. I am the proud owner of a red supra, with all the RS little gadgets; lights, fwd, bearings, stage 2 motor (red) you named it.I recently got the pro lithium kit, I bought the batteries and did it my self, the only difference is that I used the wire that comes with 9v batteries connectors, it worked perfectly for two weeks racing every day.until it fried my reverse it keep running forward ok with no reverse, so I bought a another xmod to change the board and used the rest as parts, but the fun just lasted for 5 days and then no reverse again, followed by no power at all. When I connected the batteries to the charger it recognized the batteries, they charge ok but when I reconnect them to the car the power just last for one minute and then shuts down. I have a new board and dont want to mass up again . Please if you have any idea of what could be the problem? Thanks. |
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Jshwaa |
Re: just ask jshwaa | ||
Quote: And how exactly did you have this rigged? 9V connector on car, and the other on cells? When you connected the cells to the car, you just connected the 9V connectors together? Quote: Ok, what fried your reverse? The connector? What was the car doing right before you noticed the erratic behavior? Quote: Hmmm....was it connected in the same way as the first car? Was it doing the same thing when it fried? Quote: The cells get completely discharged after only one minute?? Does it shut down for a few seconds and then get a burst of speed again? Do the cells need to be recharged after that one minute? If so then it sounds to me that you AT LEAST have a couple bad cells. They could have discharged lower than the cell's critical low voltage(@3V). In that case it's time to give Robert a call. He'll either replace the cells or sell you new ones, of course. Quote: I don't blame you. Sounds like you should have upgraded your FET's before messing with li-ions. This is common with new li-ion users. If you have too much cell and motor, then you fry the FET's. If you have too much FET, then you are fine. FET's first, then cells and motors. What are you going to do with the fried boards? I could use them. Name your price. |
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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I only use the wires and cut off the part that connects with the 9v batteries. I figured that this took less space, and since it can handle 9v they are perfect. I used the same desing as the Rob's lithium pro kit with deans ultra plugs.
Before the reverse fried I had just charged the batteries and when I connect them to the car, the white smoke from hell started coming out. when I was going to try it out....surprise...no reverse!! Both of the boards went through the same exact crap I solved the power problem, it was a soldering problem in the deans ultra plugs. Now the car works fine, exept for the reverse. I get around 40 to 50 min of ruuning time. I am using an RS stage 2 with the lit. batteries, could that be the frying problem???Even if I am using that enging w/ the lit batteries do i have to upgrade the FET's. Oh...and by the way I do have a couple of fried boards for you!! |
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