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Booya2180 |
chargers and batteries | ||
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I have a hobby plane that has a six cell 600 mah ni-mh pack. can i use the charger for those batteries, to charge the atomicmods flat top 900 mah batteries (there are six of them wired the same way. only difference is the mah)?
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Jshwaa |
Re: chargers and batteries | ||
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If the only difference is the mah, then the only difference you'll be concerned with(as far as charging), is the time it takes to complete the charge.
I don't know what the current output of the charger for the plane is, but if it was designed specifically for the 600mAh pack, then chances are it will take 1.5 times as long to charge the 900mAh pack. Make doubly sure that the peak voltage is the same before using it. ![]() |
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Booya2180 |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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hmm how about this. I have a nimh energizer charger that i used to charge some other 650 mah batteries (1.2v) could i use this to charge the button top 900 mah batteries.
here are its specs on the back btw it charges AA AAA C D and 9volt batteries Input: AC120V 60Hz 15W Output: 2x(2.8v a line with some dots under it 500 mA) 2x(9.8v a line with some dots under it 13 mA) im thinking the bottom line may be for 9V batteries because of the high voltage, but i really dont have any great ideas.... |
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Ok, the 2.8V outputs sound like they were made to charge 2 x 1.2V cells in series. The other output is clearly for 9V charge(although rechargeable 9V are a 7.2V battery). If you know how to wire that up, it should work. Like I said earlier though, you're just going to deal with a variance in charge time. As long as you get your voltage right, you're fine.
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Booya2180 |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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hmm maybe ill just shell out the cash for the atomic mods 8 cell charger and get a six-cell upgrade while im at it. thanks!
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TimberBunny |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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I've been experimenting with Potentiometers, and i've runinto a problem.
I found one that works, but i've been running power through it from a pair of lith-ions. It seemed not to function at all, until it turned it WAY down, (no resistance), and then came the pretty lightshow. It seems that i'd only had about 5 degrees to play with on a 5k pot, and after that it resisted everything. It arced until it burned one of the pot legs off when i actually used it in the range it responded in. So, what should i do? Get a huge pot, or just regulate it somehow? Seems it should be able to handle this sort of thing... i mean, an xmods pot did the same thing, and obviously it works in the trucks and cars... Segmented Crawler: Under Construction. Beach Buggy: Queued. Iron Cheetah: Queued. |
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Timberbunny,
I'm not exactly sure what it is that you're trying to do with this potentiometer, with regards to your xmod, but it sounds as if for WHATEVER your trying to do, you have something connected wrong. How exactly do you have this potentiometer wired to the cells and the xmod? It sounds like you are shorting your cells through the pot, when you dial in a very low resistance between two leads of the pot. Get back to me with a brief description(schematic prefereably), and I'll get to the bottom of it. ![]() |
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danielk |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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josh, it isnt an xmod...it is a tank that is using pot to regulate the speed of each motor...
Watch Out N00bs, the Noobstick Has Mercy For No N00b! |
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Oh, I see. Then you need a low-ohm, high power potentiometer. You don't want too much voltage dropped at the pot, and deprive your motors of current, so you need a pot that will be a short when you have the pot turned all the way right, or all the way left, but in between you are controlling a ratio of power that is displaced between your two motors for steering control. Correct?
So if you have a 5K ohm pot, you are dropping way too much voltage at the pot when it is near the middle, for the motors to get enough current to actuate. Then when you have the pot turned all the way left, you must have something shorting for the heat to become apparant. If I understand the circuit correctly, if the pot is turned all the way, you should be shorting the cells to the motor in series. So the motor current is flowing through the pot. The pot might not have a power rating that will handle this. Check your data sheet. Go to digikey to find a better alternative for your potentiometer. Look for power rating(if that even is a rating for potentiometers). Also look for the amount of turns it takes for the pot to go from zero to max ohmage. And look for the max ohmage rating, of course. My guess is that you'd want at least 10W, 5 or 10 ohm. Don't get too high of ohmage or your motors will starve. Good luck. Go to digikey and type in part number RES10RE-ND ![]() |
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TimberBunny |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Okay, Jshwaa... What would you know about the tolerances of ZipZap EPs? I'm considering using one of them to run a miniature homebuilt RC, but i'm afraid that i'll cook it too easily. Think they can handle 2 li-ions? I think it actually runs on a very small one as it is, but i don't know if it's still 3.7v with a low mAh, or if it's lower voltage AND a lower mAh.
How could i test the battery and EP with my multimeter to get the info i'd like? Segmented Crawler: Under Construction. Beach Buggy: Queued. Iron Cheetah: Queued. |
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js420 |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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If it's lithium, it's likely a multiple of 3.7V, as that's the usual base cell voltage. Stick your meter into DC volts and put it across the battery when it's charged and you should see the max voltage.
The mAh rating doesn't have any effect on what the board can handle. The current drawn is dictated by the board and motor, not by the mAh rating. That just indicates how long you can draw from the battery at whatever rate it is you draw. If you're talking about 2 li-ions in parallel (same power, double the runtime), then you have no problem (assuming it's current battery is the same voltage as a single cell you want to use). You only have to worry when you want to stick them in series and double the voltage. Since they're so tiny, I would also worry about them frying at higher voltage. There's no test you can do to determine what voltage they'll handle besides actually throwing the bigger battery in and seeing if they'll fry. Not exactly a passive test =) Other than that, unless Josh or someone else knows, you can either google it, or attempt to analyze the circuit and figure out what components are used and what current/voltage they can tolerate. |
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TimberBunny |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Short of TONS of research to find out what each componant is, and what it's rating may be (without removing it from the board to check, lol), i don't have the knowledge to analyze the componants.
I'm really wanting to go out today and grab a copy of "Electronics for Dummies" and a Zipzap on sale, just to see what i can work out. I just might. Segmented Crawler: Under Construction. Beach Buggy: Queued. Iron Cheetah: Queued. |
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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The 3 elements to concentrate on are motor, FET's, cells. Analyzing EVERY component will not be very effective in modifying performance. It would be a good learning experience though.
What I would do is get yourself a good multimeter(Fluke) and monitor different points in the circuit, while you do various commands with the remote. Carefully monitor every pin of the FET's while throttling in forward and reverse. Refer to circuit diagrams that have been scattered throughout various threads, or other forums, and see if you can deduce what is going on in the circuit. Then, once you have a good idea of how it works, you can devise ways to modify it. Have fun. ![]() |
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burnt rubber |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Jshwaa, i completely disassembled my evo xmod to learn where everything goes and such, but i misadjusted the front diff. and now the xmod wont run (it keeps binding) the rear diff works fine, along with the motor, and nothing is stripped. but everytime i loosen the front diff its too loose and it wont catch, and when i tighten it its too tight and it binds...should i just buy a new front diff (GPM XMOD Evo Car SuperDuty Ball Differential Assembly) or can i fix the stock one?
Im the best driver i know... not including me of course
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TimberBunny |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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this forum is for Electronic Qs, this thread especially... but since i can't mve the whole thread, i'll attempt an answer.
I had the same trouble with a diff of mine once. i ended up replacing it with a rear diff from another truck. I got the old one working by pulling it apart, making sure everything was kosher in there, pressing it back together, and then fiddling with it for about 20 minutes trying to get the EXACT pin placement for normal useage. In short: keep trying, you'll eventually get it to fit well, there's not a lot else you can do. Segmented Crawler: Under Construction. Beach Buggy: Queued. Iron Cheetah: Queued. |
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burnt rubber |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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I fixed it, I had put a long screw where a short screw should have gone, and it was catching the diff
Im the best driver i know... not including me of course
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lowkeyed |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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I have a question, I am working on a rear tandem axle project, and I am wanting to drive each axle with a separate motor. Can I use two (2) Gen1 esc's with the same frequency chips in both esc's to drive each motor? I was also curious if on the 2nd esc if I could remove the steering servo and still have that esc drive the motor. Thanks in advance for the replies.
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js420 |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Can't see any reason why you couldn't use two identical ESC's to drive both axles. And yes, you can remove the servo from one of them without problems.
The only issues I can think of might be a small difference in speed or response time between the two ESC's. I'm not sure how much in sync the two need to be for your application, but you could always adjust them slightly by putting a very low (on the order of a fraction of an ohm) resistance, high current potentiometer in series with the faster motor. |
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lowkeyed |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Thanks for the tip. I tried out the two and it worked perfectly. Now just to finish out the body and start on the chassis.
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TimberBunny |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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..Or wire the motors in series, since all you'd be doing is using up extra energy to power a useless, redundant esc. If you're tying them both into the same battery pack, it's just stealing energy that could be used for motor pushing, and putting it into an esc that's telling both motors to do exactly the same thing.
Segmented Crawler: Under Construction. Beach Buggy: Queued. Iron Cheetah: Queued. |
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