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 Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 1746 (08/21/04 08:10:46) Xmod Tech |
Quote: Yes, obviously. You need heavier FET'ing because the li-ions will supply a bit more current than the Ni-MH that it was designed for, especially when you stall the motor(accelerating, drag in drive-train, etc.) Either upgrade or do a 2x2 stack. I'd suggest doing the stack, but it is tricky. Good luck. |
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dnice |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 659 (08/24/04 07:24:54) X-Treme Modder |
How do you check if your FETs are hooked up right with a DMM,where do you put the probes?Also should i stack my FETS before i put them on, or put them on one at a time?How do you check thier connected right?Sorry so many q's.
If IT AINT NICE, IT AINT ME!!
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 1746 (08/25/04 16:28:43) Xmod Tech |
Quote: Good question. I put the DMM in OHM setting, and then there's a button I can push to put the DMM into a continuity checker mode. This will make your DMM beep when you touch the probes together, or when you touch both probes to a wire. So, if you put one probe on a leg of your FET's, and the other probe further down the trace to say a resistor or capacitor, you can tell if the FET is connected to the resistor or capacitor. You have "continuity" to that resistor or capacitor, if the DMM beeps. Do that for every leg, and if you indeed have continuity with every leg, AND no continuity between other legs(except for drains), then you can be sure that the FET is installed properly. It's just as important to check for disconnections as it is connections. You best be sure that legs 1 through 4 have no continuity between eachother(1 through 4 should not touch). Legs 5 through 8 can have continuity though. Actually, they already do, inside the chip, so it's ok if you solder them together outside the chip. Quote: I always made the stacks and then soldered the stack on the board. |
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red97supra |
260 | ||
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Posts: 187 (08/29/04 09:49:13) |
Will i need to stack my FETS for a mabuchi 260?
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Jshwaa |
Re: 260 | ||
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Posts: 1746 (08/30/04 02:48:38) Xmod Tech |
No. The Mabuchi 260's and 280's don't draw too much current due to their high number of turns.
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kacivic |
Re: FET Ques. | ||
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Posts: 416 (08/31/04 13:08:28) Racer |
do you know where i could purchase FETs to upgrade them myself? i'd like to be able to afford for robert to do it for me, but that's really not an option right now. i have a friend tho who is an electrical engineer and actually works with components this small quite frequently who said he could help me, i just have to get ahold of some.
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Biohazard |
fets | ||
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Posts: 242 (08/31/04 14:04:20) Modder |
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kacivic |
Re: fets | ||
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Posts: 416 (08/31/04 15:34:30) Racer |
Awesome! tho it does feel kind of shady. oh well, i guess that's what it's there for tho.
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Supraman22 |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 16 (09/06/04 18:15:11) |
what does your Xmod have besides 4cells (which i belive you got the ability to do due to the V1 power package rob sells, ) in order to make it go 44mph? also what motor did you use? did it fry after you did the run or are you still using it?
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kacivic |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 416 (09/07/04 09:53:03) Racer |
nevermind on the first...
on one of my cars, the electronics seem to work correctly except for some chatter in the steering servo (jerky motion) and jerkiness in the throttle. almost like the signal cuts out. this is at zero range with no resistance on the motor or wheels. is there anything i can try to correct this? i've tried doing a search and can't find anything on this specific problem. if it's gonna be fairly complicated to repair it, i'd rather just get it to someone who could fix it |
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 1746 (09/08/04 19:43:58) Xmod Tech |
I'd check all of your connections. The cells, the antenna, the motor, everything. You're either losing reception or power. If it's power then you got a simple power wire or cell connection that's posing a significant resistance. This will make your power cut in and out. If it's reception, then you got serious problems because you'd need an oscilloscope to pinpoint the cause of the problem and fix it, without replacing the whole receiver of course.
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 0 (09/10/04 11:28:52) |
Jshwaa, i need to know where on the mainboard to solder down wires from a servo....Cuz i neglected to write it down when I yanked the servo.
EDIT: If anyone would like to take a picture.....that'd be uber delux |
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dnice |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 659 (09/10/04 19:28:05) X-Treme Modder |
I was going thru some old posts, and i heard you talk about a reg mod, Is this a regulator? I read it in extreme/atomicmods come thru... I was just wondering which motor is better,280 or 260 mabuchi. I have a LHS that sells them and im curious if these are good stock? Im winding my own 130 cans(experimenting with first 2) and seeing these made me wonder...Also are thier 130's any good stock ? Sorry so much.
If IT AINT NICE, IT AINT ME!!
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 1746 (09/10/04 20:53:45) Xmod Tech |
Quote: Well I bet you'll never do that again, lol. Live and learn. Anyway, here it goes..... Look where those wires were soldered to the main control board. There should be numbers next to where they were connected. Brown goes to 8, Red to 9, and Orange to 10. The servo motor has a Red wire which connects to the drain terminals(5 through 8) of IC4, and a Blue wire which connects to the drain terminals(5 through 8) of IC3. Hope this helps. Quote: Yes. Quote: The 280 is good for a ton of torque, and the 260 is not as torquey but faster. Quote: Yes, there are a few good motors out there. Give www.atomicmods.com a try. There you will find the Nuke 130 SM(super modified). It has all the goods. |
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kacivic |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 416 (09/11/04 13:15:28) Racer |
another question... on the side of the board that the batt. wires are soldered onto, what is that thing that connects to the neg. wire? (or at least it used to...) is this something i'd be able to replace? this is the board i was having trouble with and when i removed the wires (desoldering) that thing came off with it
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Jshwaa |
Re: Just ask Jshwaa. | ||
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Posts: 1746 (09/12/04 08:54:56) Xmod Tech |
That is a small decoupling capacitor. It decouples AC variances to ground. I wouldn't worry about it unless your xmod starts acting erratic, or stuttering. If you got the parts/skills/tools, try replacing it. Your xmod should still work, however.
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kacivic |
cap... | ||
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Posts: 416 (09/12/04 14:48:50) Racer |
that is EXCELLENT news... now maybe i can get all 5 of mine running again...
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dnice |
Re: DMM testing? | ||
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Posts: 659 (09/19/04 19:41:20) X-Treme Modder |
Using a DMM , how do you check the charge of your L-ION cells. I wanna know how i can monitor thier charging, also i wanna add a 3rd cell. Im sure adding that would alter the charging process. What are the schematics for a 3rd cell?
If IT AINT NICE, IT AINT ME!!
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Jshwaa |
Re: DMM testing? | ||
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Posts: 1746 (09/22/04 14:40:37) Xmod Tech |
Quote: Put the DMM in voltage mode. Make sure the probes are plugged in the appropriate holes for voltage measurement(not current). Connect the red probe to where the red wire(from xmod) connects to the cell. Connect the black probe to where the black wire connects to a cell. The voltage you get is how charged your cells are. If you have 2 in series, divide that number by 2, to determine how much charge each cell has. Do not let the cells drain below 3V/cell. So if you measure 2 cells, it's time to recharge at 6V. With 3 cell it is the same, but 9V is the minimum charge voltage. You get the idea. As far as HOW to connect 3 cells in series.....you disconnect either the negative wire, the postive wire, or the wire inbetween the li-ions themselves, and you place the 3rd cell in the circuit, where the negatives meet positives(+'s to -'s) and reconnect the wiring. It just depends on where you want to put that 3rd cell.(ie. front, middle, back of 3 cell series arrangement). Let me know if this makes sense to you. If not, I'll draw a diagram. |
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dnice |
Re: DMM testing? | ||
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Posts: 659 (09/22/04 18:24:56) X-Treme Modder |
It makes sense, but seeing it would make it more concrete. Also, would i need a regulater to run a third L-ION? Thanks in advance for the diagram. Also, what kind(s) of resistors are used to repair your range? I have a small one like on AM and i think its 22k 2%, I also have one thats 1k. I saw these at a local electronics shop and wondered if they would work if i fried my range again. If i didnt give you enough info let me know, like if you need to know the colors.
If IT AINT NICE, IT AINT ME!!
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